The darkening color and random nature of the patina adds to the rugged look of the metal, and the slow change and distinct wear speaks to the owner’s life and style. The metal oxidizes, creating a layer of brown, green and black marks that give each watch a distinct look. Part of what makes the metal so unique, and popular, is that it patinas over time. For a few great examples of bronze watches, check out our reviews of the Archimede Pilot, Halios Tropik B, Ancon Tank, Maranez Layan and our look at the Makara Octopus Prototype. Usually of the tool watch variety, the warm metal hints at gold, but has a toughness to it that is altogether unique. Bronze watches (sometimes brass, and of varying alloys) integrate really well into a watch collection. My Chief was still able to scrape shave, but it took a few strokes on the sharpmaker to bring it back to a freshly sharpened feel.Bronze watches are increasing in popularity by the day a trend we are wholeheartedly supporters of. This process won't dramatically dull a knife the way ferric chloride can, but you'll still want to double check your edge. The longer the soak and the lower the corrosion resistance of the steel, the greater your chances of needing to sharpen. Check your edge when you're done as you may need to do a touch-up to get it back to peak sharpness. The vinegar will eat away at the apex a little. One last thing before you put the knife together and back in your pocket. I scrubbed my blade with a green dish scrubbie, then wiped everything down with a towel saturated in rubbing alcohol, then a wet towel, then a dry towel. Make sure to remove the vinegar from all the little crevices like the choil jimping. Go slow and be gentle or its possible to strip the entire we just worked to form. Once you've reached your desired darkness, you'll need to give the blade a mild buffing to remove built up residue from the blade. I have never seen this happen before, and I've done this vinegar treatment to over 30 blades in multiple steels. The black lines near the pivot weren't coming off with a damp towel, so I attacked them with a green scrub pad. Comparing the pivot to the blade it didn't even look very dark. Looked like the blade took on a boring, dull gray. Not very dark so I let it soak some more.
That or fruits.Īfter taking that last photo I scrubbed off the rust and it was a nice even gray underneath. Letting the knife be more exposed to air is how I get the more stubborn steels going. While those big clumps of rust look bad, they wipe off, and underneath is patina. I'll saturate a paper towel in vinegar, wrap it around the blade, and let that sit out. 1095 would be done much faster, but Rex45 has solid corrosion resistance for this type of steel. I can tell this won't be quick, so I'll let it soak overnight. Hardly any change, same story after an hour. Here is how this blade looked after a one hour soak: Now I set a timer and check the blade every 30 minutes when working with a steel for the first time. I prop the blade up in the empty cup first, then fill the cup with vinegar up to just below the pivot area. I use a plastic cup so I don't damage the tip. I like to scrub out the pivot hole and lock interface with hot soapy water and a toothbrush, then give everything a once over with a rag and rubbing alcohol. If you encounter copious amounts of loc-tite like I have, try soaking the entire knife in steaming hot water to loosen it up. Here is how the blade looked before I got started:įirst thing we need to do is disassemble the knife. I'm going to demonstrate the process with my Native Chief in rex45. I was surprised at the number of questions being asked about this in another thread, so here's a quick tutorial.
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